This ride is an excellent month-long ride for beginners to undertake. There are no major hills, there are plenty of refreshments and there is plenty to see. The highlights of this trip are 2 of the Thai islands og Koh Samet and Chang, the Cambodian backpackers coastal resort of Sihanoukville and the history and relaxed Parisian style of Phnom Penh. Riding is on the route is mostly cheap; apart from the expensive resorts around the Thai coastline until Trat. I enjoyed this ride greatly. Updates are always welcome on the forum on this site.

Cambodia is a wonderful place to ride. It is full of natural beauty, friendly people and adventure. It is a place to go when you are looking for something different. There are dangers out there, there are mines, unexploded ordnance (UXO) and not a few dangers from the weather. The locals are mostly friendly and welcoming, In the past there were instances of lone travelers being kidnapped and murdered, but this was many years ago. These days the country is considered safe, with basic precautions taken.

As a cyclist you will come into contact with locals in non-tourist areas, these are often the most rewarding contacts, but sensible precautions should be taken with money and exposure to disease.

BANGKOK—BANG SEAN (61 Km)
This ride starts with a smog filled, bustling, bumpy, dirty ride out of Bangkok. My advice would be to skip this leg and take a bus or a train out of the city. I chose to ride as I know the streets quite well as I cycle around Bangkok on a daily basis.

The road is flat and straight. There is plenty of food and drink breaks along the highway. I have cycled this road in the dry and wet seasons. Neither really posed a problem for me. The traffic is an issue, but there is a fairly large shoulder from which you can take shelter from the traffic.

Depending on the route you take out of Bangkok you will reach Chonburi in 60 Km. At Chonburi I turned right and headed to Bang Sean beach, about 8 Km away. There is accommodation in Chonburi town, but a night at the beach was better value. Bang Sean is a university town and cheap accommodation is plentiful next to the beach. The beachside food is great and the evening sees plenty of restaurants and bars packed with students and holiday makers. The beach itself is forgettable, but the town is good value and worth stopping at.

BANG SEAN – PATTAYA (54 Km)
This is a short stretch of 54 Km. The traffic eases slightly and the road is flat. There is nothing much to mention about this leg of the trip, nothing much to see and nothing much to do. There was an interesting shop selling durian ice cream, but I wasn’t brave enough to try it. Maybe some other intrepid soul may want to take up that challenge.

Pattaya itself is only remarkable by it’s seediness. There is accommodation for all tastes.

If you want a nicer beach in a more relaxed atmosphere try heading to Jomtien. The ride is a further 7Km along the coast. As for Pattaya itself, I can recommend the steak and seafood on walking street. I can also recommend a stroll down walking street itself, just to flavour the atmosphere. Don’t dawdle, it really is unpleasant.

There are a number of pubs and clubs away from the sex scene, which dominates the whole city. Just ask at your guest house. Personally I use the city to have my last western food/drink experience before hitting the more rural parts of the region.

PATTAYA – RAYONG (HAT MAE RAMPUENG) (61Km)
There are 2 routes which you can take, one a little longer which goes via the coast and U-Tapao airbase, the other in land and far more boring. The first route is by far the more scenic. I have cycled both and I recommend the coastal route.

For this ride I took the scenic route, it is reasonably flat and in good condition. There are numerous refreshment stops along the way, apart from a long stretch approaching the air force base at U Tapao. The road isn’t the best ride in the region, but it is pleasant and you do get a friendly welcome from the many roadside stops and restaurants.

Arriving in Rayong there are a number of accommodation options. There are a couple of large hotels and a few ‘Chinese’ style knocking shops (if you don’t understand just stay in a place with Chinese characters and costs about 200 Baht, you will understand!). Another option is cycling a further 10Km through town and staying by the sea at Hat Maerampeung. There are a few guest houses on the beach and a couple of better resort style places. The hotel looked fine also. I stayed here and enjoyed a box 150 Baht room by the sea and had a pleasant evening. The beach isn’t the best in Thailand, but it is empty and there is great seafood.

The final option is cycling along the coast a little further to Ban Phe. This is the embarkation point for boats to Koh Samet – another wonderful spot in Thailand. If beaches are you thing then you should probably plan to spend a night or 2 on Samet, just be wary of price gouging and the extortionate national park fee charged on entry to the ‘national park’.

RAYONG – CHANTABURI (109Km)
The traffic gets lighter still as you head eastwards. The scenery doesn’t improve much, plenty of open grass lands with a few hills dotted around. The road does remain flat which is a good point to this day’s ride. The distance of the ride is quite large, but there are plenty of places to refresh your weary limbs. There are also a couple of hotels at the 50 Km mark in Kleng if you want to break your journey.

The ride into Chantaburi leaves the main Sukhumvit highway and there is a gentle 6KM ride into town. There are a few places to stay, from the local Travel Lodge to guest houses in town. There is a great guest house located on the river in the centre of the old town..

Chantaburi is a weird town, quite nice and pleasant with the old town by the river, but this is set against the gem trade which thrives here. There is obviously an undercurrent of illegal activity which will always thrive in a gem town. All the same, it is worth a visit, though probably not worth the effort to actually buy gems.

CHANTABURI – KOH CHANG (120Km)
This day's ride is a bit of a monster. The first 90 Km are flat and dull, but once you turn off the main highway toward the Koh Chang ferry then the road becomes hilly. There are a couple of ferry options, with no great difference in price or luxury between them once you reach the shore line.
Once on Koh Chang you should probably head for Hat Sai Keaw (White Sands Beach) if you have no other accommodation booked. There are usually plenty of places available, apart from the very high season. There are other resort towns also, so you should have no problems. I had booked a cheap room in a resort on the beach. The town (resort) has all modern conveniences and luxuries.

The note of caution for this leg is the ride into Hat Sai Keaw. There is a mountain with an extreme gradient on it. I have tried to ride this mountain 3 times and I have only once succeeded in cycling all the way, the other 2 times I have walked up. This makes the day that little bit longer.

Make sure that you fill up with liquid at the first 7/11 you come to. This will ensure that you can make it over this obstacle between you and a good curry/beer.

KOH CHANG – TRAT (46Km)
This leg is fairly simple, it is a relatively short distance and the road is good and flat. I couldn’t resist taking a picture at the top of the mountain on the island of Chang. The downward ride toward the ferry is a great feeling, knowing you have ridden up the mountain!

The ride does have a drawback – it is dull. There is one town which you pass through with a few touristy ‘tat’ shops, but really nothing much of interest.

Coming through Trat you will pass a number of guest house places close to the bus station. There is a limit on the quality of these places also. I opted to head to the centre of town and find myself the usual Chinese flop house right next to the main market. The hotel was cheap (250Baht) and reasonable (the less said about the toilet, the better) but its strength was that it was right next to the market. The food was top quality and cheap. Their was an abundant supply of cheap cycling food. My only complaint of Trat was the annoying taxi tout who I passed about 10 times and each time he launched into his horrible sales pitch, disregarding the fact he had seen me 10 times previously (and I had a bike with me).

TRAT – KOH KONG (89Km)
The ride becomes a bit more hilly and scenic at this point, but the hills are too outrageous. The road takes you on a route along the coast. There are some glorious and secluded beaches on the way. The traffic is light and there are a lot of places to stop for refreshments. There were, at the time of writing, 3 police and army checkpoints. I wasn’t stopped at any of these, the police seemed more interested in searching large vehicles, presumably for Cambodian illegals making their way to Trat/Bangkok.

The last section, from Khlong Yai to Koh Kong (about 15Km) gets a bit steep in places, however I still wouldn’t classify this section as a ‘mountain stage’. If the hills do take their toll on you, there are a couple of guest houses in Khlong Yai. I didn’t stop and inspect them, but they seemed quite respectable (as they come in the Thai countryside).

The border is one of those sleepy ones with a few touts, a couple of buildings and a few vendors. The formalities on the Thai side were quick and efficient, the Cambodian side were laid back and full of the annoying rip offs of other Cambodian border points. The first trick they tried was the usual demand for 1000Baht instead of the real price of $20. Then they tried to add $5 on the price when I pleaded that I only had dollars on me. Keep firm, don’t get angry and be prepared to stay for an hour or so, but you will eventually get the visa at real price. The Cambo Immi boys won’t be happy with you, but stand your ground.

The ride into Koh Kong is simple, if a little dull. There is a toll booth on the way, I think the price was 1000 Riel (20Cents). Change a little money at the border and you should be fine. Everyone carries US$ in Cambodia, it’s the currency of choice. In the border towns of Koh Kong (and others) Thai Baht is just as valuable as US$, but the poor Cambodian Riel is always least preferred.

Once you arrive in Koh Kong, take a right off the main road into the main town/dock area. You will pass many guest houses on your left. I picked the awful Koh Kong Guest House and regretted it. Price gouging and rip-offs started when I checked in and never stopped. The place was truly awful.

The town at night was one of those crazy Cambodian towns with an under current of threat and not so safe atmospheres. I gauge these places usually by the number of times someone will stop you, usually tuk-tuk drivers, and ask you to go gambling/drinking or even visit a ’chicken farm’ (ust imagine a normal chicken place packed with poor farming girls, not chickens, and you are imagining correctly). This town didn’t disappoint, I was asked 5 times to visit the ‘farm’ on a 10 minute walk around town.

The boat ticket was booked through my guest house (one of the many attempts to rip me off!). I eventually got the ticket for $20, the correct value. There is NO fee for the bike. You may get repeated attempts to get you to pay extra, there is no extra fee for it.

KOH KONG – SIHANOUKVILLE (ferry)
The departure point (loosely called a ‘quay’ – I would describe it more of a pile of broken cement) is easy to find. It’s opposite all the guest houses in town. When I approached I immediately had my bike seized by eager Cambodian labourers. The put the bike on top of the boat and tied it on with a combination of rope and my bungee cords (always carry bungee cords when cycle touring). I then went below and took a seat. The trip was a few hours, but I was soon asleep and the journey was flat and calm. There is a stop along the way at Koh S'dach. I didn’t have a look, but there are good accounts from people who have stayed here.

The boat eventually arrives at the port of Sihanoukville. From the terminal take a right and head into town. The roads are great and the traffic (once out of the port area) is light and gentle. There are a number of areas to chose from for your stay. You can stay in the centre of town, by the beach or on top of a hill overlooking the port area. I chose the beach. I have stayed in the town previously. There is some good accommodation to choose from, but I wanted a more relaxed ‘beach’ feel this time. I stayed at Cool Banana Bungalows on Serendipity Beach , $5 a night with cable and hot water, excellent in the circumstances. The owner was a very friendly Aussie guy.

SIHANOUKVILLE-KAMPOT (104Km)
The ride starts with a few hills immediately as you are leaving the dock area of Sihanoukville. My memory plays tricks on me here as I have done this stretch of road many times, I remember it as tough, but on this ride the hills are relatively easy and painless. I was overtaken by a young couple of cyclists who were from the Cambodian cycling team. Nice guys, bad bikes!

The road is flat and the scenery is beautiful after the initial hill stage. There is a toll booth about 20Km from Sihanoukville, don’t stop. You do not have to pay. The road then takes a right at Prey Nup and to your left you will see the mountains of the famous Bokor Hill Station. There isn’t a sign post, but take a right at the gas station and you will be fine. Last time I rode this section it was unsealed and muddy (dust), this time it was sealed and in good condition. This stretch of road is particularly stunning for it’s natural beauty. I was also joined, for about 20Km, by a local lad who wanted to practice his English. This is something which happens quite often in the region. Sometimes it is a bit tiresome, but most times the people who stop to chat are very nice and welcoming. They are often a great source of local information.

At about the 90Km mark you will pass the turning, on your left, for Bokor Hill Station National Park. I recommend that you do not attempt to cycle this after doing 90Km riding! The route up to the top is quite exhausting. Instead get a room in Kampot and come at the ride when you are fresh – take plenty of water. The view from the top is well worth it and the place is stunning.

Staying in Kampot is easy, take the old bridge into town and turn right if you want to stay on the river side, or carry on and head for the roundabout if you want the cheaper, down market accommodation. I always stay by the roundabout, being the high-class bloke that I am. I always go for the 5$ room if there is a choice (between 5$ and 10$!). I did investigate the hotels around the town this time and I did find some particularly grimy and unpleasant accommodation. Just shop around and ask to see the room before you pay. I got cable, hot water and a fan for 5$.

Eating is a joy in Kampot, mainly because of the pepper. Kampot pepper is probably the best in the world, you can taste the difference in the food. The more expensive restaurants are down by the river. There was also a nice new English pub run by an English couple. The name escapes me, but its along the river and the hosts are extremely nice, talkative and helpful. If anyone know the name, can you e-mail me so I can give them a plug?

KAMPOT-ANGKOR TASAOM (75Km)
Start this ride by leaving via the roundabout and heading onto ‘Highway’ 3. There are good signs. You must pass the ever lovely market on your left and then head out into the lush, green Cambodian countryside. This ride you will start to find trees giving you some shade and the road has a good hard shoulder most of the way.

My only annoyance on this day was a group of western cyclists who appeared coming in the opposite direction. Being of sound mind and happy to be there I waved and said hello. I was duly ignored by all 7 of the riders! This group had no panniers with them so I presume that they were part of a supported tour. It is disappointing to receive no response from fellow cyclists (western or from anywhere!). It is becoming more common now to ignore people who are touring. When I started touring the region, it was almost law that you must stop and chat with fellow cyclists as you pass, departing with a ‘happy trails’ to each other. It seems sad that this seems to be dying out. Rant over.

In Angkor Tasaom there are 2 guest houses to choose from, both are ok by Khmyer standards, both cheap and clean. You will find them opposite the market. Your other choice of accommodation is 12Km away, to the east, in Takeo. I chose Angkor Tasaom as it is on route 3 into Phnom Penh, Takeo is on route 2 and takes you into Phnom Penh from the east.

ANGKOR TASAOM-PHNOM PENH (77Km)
The final leg of this route is on a good, sealed road. About 20Km into the ride there is a construction site which has diverted and cut up the road, but it is a minor hitch on this otherwise pleasant ride. As you would expect, the traffic picks up the closer you get to the city, but there is a good shoulder most of the way and the traffic is mindful of cyclists.

There are no specific directions for this ride, just follow the road north. The ride is relatively short, there are no major issues with this leg of the trip. Getting into Phnom Penh is easy, just follow the road past the airport, and head for the Central Market. At the central market you can either turn left for the accommodation area at the lakeside. This is the cheaper backpacker area and is located near Phnom Penh Train Station. Turn left after the big 5 star hotel. The other option is turn right and head for the riverside area. This is an area of beautiful old colonial style buildings on the waterfront. There are many places to choose from, to suit all needs. My personal favourite is the Royal Guest House, a few blocks away from the river, but really you can choose whatever style of accommodation you desire.

Phnom Penh has plenty to do and see for a few days. There are the world famous Killing Fields, the torture school of S21 and the more fun places like the National Museum or the Russian Market. There is plenty to eat and see in Phnom Penh. Of course no trip would be complete without a visit to the Heart of Darkness. This is a well known pub. It has gone through many changes since I first visited it in Phnom Penh’s wild west days, it’s modern incarnation is a beautifully decorated, trendy bar. Believe me when I tell you that it wasn’t always so!

Phnom Penh is a good location to finish this ride report. This time I rode back to Bangkok via the southern route of the Tonle Sap, but there is such a myriad of options for continuing trips. You can go north of the Tonle Sap and take in Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, you can even take a boat there. You could also go north to Laos (make sure you get your Laos visa in Phnom Penh) or you could go east/southeast to Vietnam. Each route has different highlights. I will cover them in other trip reports. -end-
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