Cambodia is a wonderful place to ride. It is full of natural beauty, friendly people and adventure. It is a place to go when you are looking for something different. There are dangers out there, there are mines, unexploded ordnance (UXO) and not a few dangers from the weather. The locals are mostly friendly and welcoming, In the past there were instances of lone travelers being kidnapped and murdered, but this was many years ago. These days the country is considered safe, with basic precautions taken.

As a cyclist you will come into contact with locals in non-tourist areas, these are often the most rewarding contacts, but sensible precautions should be taken with money and exposure to disease.

Saigon to Svey Rieng (120Km)
An early start out of Saigon is essential as the traffic is heavy from dawn. The compensation is the relative ease with which you can navigate out of the city. The road heading east takes you past the Cu Chi tunnels (for all the Vietnam War junkies) to the border at Moc Bai. The road is flat, well sealed and a pleasant ride if you ignore the heavy traffic. There is a hard shoulder most of the way which allows for safe riding. I kept close to the bailout point most of the ride to the border for fear of the heavy lorries thundering passed me.

The formalities at the border are simple, if a little time consuming. I managed to get ripped off by one of the money changers at the border, but this says more about my ignorance than the general system of things at the border. The usual international border rules apply when changing money or doing business - make sure that you check/double check everything before handing over the cash. The Vietnamese border goons were a bit surly, but the Cambodians were extremely helpful and welcoming. They even posed for pictures with smiles. The road immediately changes at the border. It was pot-holed and unsealed in places which made my average speed fall to approximately 10km/h. Welcome to Cambodia. There is an additional issue here.

There seems to be a lack of water at first. Things may have improved today, but I struggled for water for 10/15 Km. You can stay in Svey Rieng town, which has a couple of nice guest houses (at the cross roads in town) and a small choice of restaurants.

There is an active and lively local population who will try to engage you in conversation at the earliest opportunity. Don't forget that this is the poorest province in Cambodia, and in my experience, poverty usually produces simple but cheery folk!

In town, accommodation can be found by the market, there are a couple of decent places from which to choose. The standard rates apply for Cambodian countryside - $5/$10 depending on fan or AC. Cable is usually included in these kinds of places, but not always.

Svey Rieng - Neak Luang (61Km)
The second stage of this ride brings a bit of history. This is a flat ride of 70km from Svey Rieng to Neak Luang. Neak Luang is the site of the opening scenes in the movie The Killing Fields. Apparently the town was flattened back then and it hasn't recovered much to this day. The ride is flat and reasonably easy.

In town there are a few guest houses, a particularly dirty looking hotel (didn't get a name) and things are easy to find (market etc.). I stayed in a dirty hovel (more like brothel, but didn't do too much investigation) for $5.

Neak - Luang to Phnom Penh (60Km)
Stage 3 is a gentle and pleasant ride through the lush regions following the river into Phnom Penh. The first issue of the day is to catch the ferry across the river with the morning masses. The river crossing is a paltry 1000 Riel with a bike. Just follow the thronged masses as they do their morning business. The exit is a bit 'hairy' with all the punters rushing at once, but it is all taken in good humor by the locals.

The ride is good; the road improves on the Phnom Penh side of the river. The surface is sealed and in excellent condition. The traffic builds as you near Phnom Penh, mainly with the school 'rush' hours, but overall this is a relaxed ride of about 50 Km.

Phnom Penh - Skoun 'Spider Town' (80Km)
This ride is great; lush, green trees, flat, little traffic and plenty of rest stops along the way. This ride is fun. Out of Phnom Penh there are 2 routes you can take, one is over the Japanese Bridge (you really can't miss it in Phnom Penh) or you can go further up and cross the river via ferry. I took the bridge and went with the early morning traffic north toward Skoun.

The road is sealed and in good condition all the way. The locals are friendly and the smiles are genuine. There is a certain lack of people saying hello, but this is a positive thing as you aren't so distracted on the way.

In Skoun you have a choice of 2 or 3 hotels. All in the $5 bracket. They are located just off the central roundabout. Make sure you stop by the spider ladies! These are the ladies who will offer you large, roasted spiders from a tray. I don't know who eats them, but good luck to all who do. If the spiders don't inspire your culinary interests, there are always the fried insects.

Skoun - Kompong Thom (95Km)
The scenery isn't great on this leg, but the road is flat and in good condition, again the locals are great and the refreshments are plentiful. Just follow Highway 6, and you should be entering Kompong Thom in no time. There are a few distractions on the route, you can detour to a couple of historical sites, mainly temples, but nothing much to write home about. You will see the signs from the main highway.

Kompong Thom itself is fairly easy to navigate. There is a big bridge at the centre of town by the market. A number of cheap and nice hotels to choose from, and there is a thriving restaurant scene. If you are in need of a chocolate/ice cream fix then there is a shop at the gas station in the centre by the big hotels. This is the first chocolate fix out of Phnom Penh.

I stayed in the nice hotel just over the bridge (on Siem Reap side). I have just one word of caution about the town - I ate the big restaurant just on the opposite side of the river from my hotel and was alarmed to discover what looked like 2 bullet holes in the window. I asked the (extremely nice) waitress and she confirmed, in good English, that yes, indeed, they were stray bullets from a recent gun fight. Cambodia, despite what it seems, is still the wild west at times.

Kompong Thom - Siem Reap (150Km)
The road carries on westward, flat and sealed. The welcome is a little warmer (if that's possible) on this section. Everywhere I stopped I faced hordes of locals, all curious and all friendly. My lack of Cambodian was annoying, but they definitely love cyclists in this neck of the woods.

There is an interesting stop here, at about lunch time, in a little town called Kampong Veng (although the town name is different on different maps and depending on who you speak to!). There is an Angkor era bridge which used to carry all the main traffic from Siem Reap, but now, thankfully, it has been retired. The only trouble is, in their haste to preserve the road, the Cambodians have put large concrete blocks at each end of the bridge which makes the bridge look pretty ugly.

The ride into Siem Reap is long, but entirely achievable in a day and you can break your journey at Kampong Veng as there are a couple of guest houses in town (one on the main road in the eastern half of town, the other behind the market).

The ride into Siem Reap is interesting and will give you an idea about the scale of the growth of the tourist industry in the town (city). When I first cycled to this town it was about a quarter of the size and it really didn't have the mad traffic that is apparent today. I would recommend not giving into temptation and settling for one of the hotels on the main road in (although there are some impressive looking places), instead head more central and try either the main backpacker area by the river or head into town and get a luxury place by the market. I always stay at the Happy Guest House, because, well, its happy! The surprising growth of this town is really the most shocking thing. There is now a road akin to the world famous Khao San Road in Bangkok. Just avoid the potato skins in the restaurants (ok, try them then you will understand..).

The national park at Angkor Wat is spectacular - see it, cycle it and take the classic pictures. It is well worth it. I will just add one piece of advice to the thousands that have been written on the internet - do the temples in reverse order after the morning light at the Angkor Wat complex. On a bike it is far better to go against the crowds and take the temples in reverse order where things will be quiet and peaceful.

Siem Reap - Sisaphon (105 Km)
Ok, this is where it starts to get difficult, this road is bad. Really its worse than bad, it is appalling. Dry season or wet, this road has its challenges. As of June 2007 the road out of Siem Reap was horrible for about 30Km with pot holes, mud, dust and traffic going at speeds reserved for Grand Prix races (and without the driver skill levels). The road does improve slightly afterwards, there is at least a flat surface. This is due mainly to the road works which are slated to finish in October 2009.

The ride into town is easy - welcome to turtle capital of Malaysia. I didn't realize the turtle interest in the area. This is the step off point for a couple of islands, Pulau Kapas and Pulau Rendang. These are renowned for their beaches and marine life. I didn't make it over, mainly due to time constraints, but I will definitely be making a return trip to these islands.

The road continues like this until Sisaphon. In the wet its is particularly treacherous as a slick surface layer forms leaving it next to impossible to cycle along. Aquaplaning is a better option.

I have cycled this road numerous times and the condition has always changed year to year, season to season. I can state that the current road works look good and may last.

Once you get to Sisaphon there are a few guest houses and hotels. The town has come alive in the last few years and most things are available here. I even noticed an ATM last time I passed through! The hotel at the T-junction of Highway 6 and the route to Battambang is where I usually stay. There are a number of good restaurants in town (especially at the side of the park, in the evening).

Sisaphon - Poipet (50Km)
Heading to the border at Poipet the road is again appalling. I don't know when this section of road will be redone but it needs it now! The road is flat, but dusty. The traffic is lethal, with pick-up trucks, vans and lorries whizzing passed at a rate akin a retreat of an Iraqi army circa 1991.

Getting to the border town in Poipet is a relief, but on the Cambodian side watch for touts and the great unwashed. I was accosted several times whilst cycling by over eager guys looking to 'help' me through the border in every way possible. As it is, the formalities are simple and quick. On the Thai side be sure to wear a shirt in the passport hall, failing to do so will result is swift removal and an uneasy stand off in no-mans land. Having said that, I was given a warm farewell from Cambodia and a warm welcome (with a wide smile) to Thailand. I don't know why, but cyclists seem to bring out the best in immigration officials all over South East Asia.

The ride into Thailand is refreshing, the road is excellent, everything is developed and you get a sense of the poverty you have just left behind. Arranya Prathet is 7 Km away. There is a train for Bangkok leaving at around 14:00 (80 Baht for the bike and less for you!) and the buses in town (next to the 7/11) are all bike friendly. The motocycle guys are especially helpful and kind. You can ride to Bangkok which is another 3 days journey. -end-
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