The inspiration for this ride was an accidental conversation I had in a pub one day with a guy who had worked as a dive instructor on the Perhentian Islands on the east coast of Malaysia. I got a ticket to Bangkok then booked myself onto a Biman flight to Singapore. No bike problems on the plane, my only issue was actually getting from Changi to downtown Singapore. I did get some good advice and help from the locals in Singapore for cycling around the city.

On this thread I have inserted some more up-to-date pictures from the actual time of my cycle ride; I have visited many parts of this monster ride since. This ride remains one of my favourites and is a good ride for beginners or those with a little experience. This ride is great if you have the time, because of the forgiving nature of the roads. Accommodation is cheap and plentiful and there are many thigns to do and see. There is an interesting place or thing just about every day on this trip. It is also recommended for island junkies - these islands are the best in the world.

There are numerous cycle shops along the way, in most big towns. YOu can buy most western comforts as well, but if you are more adventurous then you can live like the locals. Basically this ride is about good scenery and excellent island life. The value is good because Thailand, whilst not the bargain it was 10 years ago, is still cheap and Malaysia is also value for money. From accommodation to food to drink (apart from northern Malaysia!) you will find everything affordable.

SPECIAL NOTE for anyone traveling this route - there has been civil unrest in the 3 border provinces of Thailand for a few years. Many people have been killed through bombings, shootings and general guerilla warfare. No tourists have been directly targeted to date, but some have been caught up in the unrest. Please seek your embassy advice on travel in the area before going - alternatively I just ignored all the advice and went on a wing and a prayer (not recommended).

Singapore - Johor Bahru (15 Km)
The first day's ride out of the steamy metropolis of Singapore is difficult. The highways are not for cyclists and the roads are busy. I would recommend taking a bus to the border point, I didn't, but will do next time! The formalities at the border are efficient, quick and relaxed. No-one was too curious about me on the bike.

The road is fantastic on the Malaysian side, and the ride into Johor Bahru is fun. There is quite a lot of traffic on the road and there are a couple of hills, but overall there is nothing to worry about.

In Johor Bahru there are a number of accommodation choices, all cheaper than that in Singapore. It is here that you must make the choice between west coast and east coast riding. I chose the east coast because someone had told me about Cherating and the Perhentian Islands off Kota Bharu.

Johor Bahru - Kota Tinggi (58 Km)
The ride is smooth, with rolling hills and a great road. There are regular refreshment stops and the traffic isn't too bad. The only thing I would say is that there is a lack of interesting sites to look at, the views are pretty dull.

In town there are a few guest houses, a particularly dirty looking hotel (didn't get a name) and things are easy to find (market etc.). I stayed in a dirty hovel (more like brothel, but didn't do too much investigation) for $5.

Kota Tinggi - Mersing (82 Km)
The road is perfect, the scenery improves and this leg is good. The traffic was very light on the day of my ride, however the locals complained to be about the traffic increasing in volume in recent years. There is a constant 'rolling' of the landscape, but this doesn't really affect the cycling. I stopped in Mersing, a small fishing town with a few guest houses. There are great beach further up the coast and some great islands within easy boat ride, but I didn't actually visit the islands. I stopped at a few beaches on my ride.

I spent my afternoon and evening wandering around this pleasant town and eating some excellent Malay food.

Mersing - Kuantan (142 Km)
This leg was hot and long. The road is excellent, good shoulder and reasonably light traffic. The major motivation on this route is that today you follow the scenic coastal route. There are many places to stop and gaze, take in the view or just rest up. I decided to head for Kuantan as it's the largest metropolis in the region.

The road in to town takes you into the central area with the bus station. There are a couple of cheap guest houses located near by, also the usual amenities of restaurants, internet and markets. The thing I didn't find easily was beer (a bit annoying on my birthday, but welcome to East Coast Malaysia!).

Kuantan - Cherating (48 Km)
Leaving Kuatan and heading towards Cherating is simple, just head north. The road is reasonably flat and is in good condition. Cherating is the backpackers paradise that has got a reputation for low key attitude and laidback lifestyle. Unfortunately I bagged the only huts that were next to the local mosque. The mosque was discrete so I didn't notice it until the call to prayer jolted me awake at an unnatural (unless you are a Muslim) hour! The place has an enticing beach, plenty of excellent windsurfing, and some fantastic bars and restaurants. It definitely lived up to its laidback reputation. I stayed for a week. Accommodation is plentiful, mostly beach huts. All prices are catered for and all the locals are friendly and helpful.

Cherating - Kerteh (47 Km)
This ride is a pleasure, along the coast road with views out to sea and plenty of great places to stop. The day holds no real issues for cyclists. I did suffer from heat stroke as I set off late (9am) with a bit of a hangover from my exertions in Cherating.

Kertah itself is fairly quiet, it is an industrial town dedicated to the oil (or gas?) industry. There is a quiet bustle about the town, but nothing much to do. The guest houses are the usual Malay/Chinese flea pit places, cheap and old. The food is great and the welcome is warm. I didn't dwell too long.

Kerteh - Kuala Terengganu (95 Km)
Still rolling up the east coast road which hugs the coast line I set off for Kuala Terengganu (a mouth full to be sure!). The ride is picture perfect, the road is great and the going is easy. I did take photos of this leg, but they have been missed placed. All that I can say is go yourself and enjoy. The traffic is light, there are a few buses and heavy trucks rumbling by, but, as with the rest of east coast Malaysia, nothing to upset the casual (or accidental..) cyclist.

The ride into town is easy - welcome to turtle capital of Malaysia. I didn't realize the turtle interest in the area. This is the step off point for a couple of islands, Pulau Kapas and Pulau Rendang. These are renowned for their beaches and marine life. I didn't make it over, mainly due to time constraints, but I will definitely be making a return trip to these islands.

I settled in one of the many in town guest houses. I didn't venture out much, but there are a plethora of local restaurants and food stalls for the hungry, accidental cyclists.

Kuala Terengganu - Kota Bharu (137 Km)
Heading up the east coast I began to see more and more guest houses, beach bungalows and resorts. The road still hugged the coast and is largely flat. I don't know why I cycled this large stretch in one day, but there are a number of places to break your journey. I think I had found my cycling legs.

The entry into the town (city) is fairly busy. The traffic is heavy as you expect of a Malay provincial capital. I headed for the market in the centre and the bus station (little tip for first time cyclists without a guide book, always ask for the market or the bus station if you want to find accommodation). At the bus station I found a pack of tourist touts trying to get me to stay in their guest house. As usual, when I am faced with this situation and am completely knackered from the ride, I said 'yes' to the first (non-shifty looking) guy with a half decent motorcycle (kinds sucks if you have to follow a taxi or a mini van to the place!). I ended up in the back street of Kota Bharu in a pleasant guest house for $5.

Beer is an issue in this friendly town. I went walking to get a bite to eat and a soothing (strictly medicinal) beer and couldn't find a single beer on sale. All the way up the east coast beer is increasingly difficult to buy. This town is clearly strictly Muslim. My nice motorcycle (Malay/Chinese) came to the rescue and went and found me some - mmm beer delivery! I wish I could plug the guest house, but I didn't get the name of the establishment.

Side trip - Perhentian Islands
I left my bike at the guest house and booked a boat ticket to the fabled Perhentian Islands off the coast of Kota Bharu. The islands hold legendary status amongst backpackers in South East Asia. There are 2 islands, both with pristine beaches and a range of accommodation. The diving here is excellent and the laid-back nature of the islands competes with some of the best islands in the Gulf of Thailand.

I stayed on the smaller island, in the beach huts to the left as you get off your boat on the main beach (Long Beach). There is a number of chalet/beach hut choices. I went to the ones in the trees, but there is plenty of choice.

Long Beach has been developed to an extent where there is nothing but restaurants/dive shops and craft shops. This is normal within the Gulf, there are precious few 'unspoilt' beaches left. Do not let this spoil you from taking a trip here, the beach, with its white sand and crystal water, is really worth a look. The diving is exceptional and there is a cool, relaxing atmosphere. I dived for 4 days here, its relatively cheap and the coral is good. The instructors are some of the best I have found in the region.

Kota Bharu - Narathiwat (Thailand) (105 Km)
Ok, leaving Kota Bharu turned into a nightmare for me, I got 'geographically embarrassed' and ended up heading west, but for everyone else (apart from the accidental cyclist) it should be easy. There is good signage to the north and the crossing at Kolok. I just didn't want to see or acknowledge it due to my innate ability to ignore perfectly good signs.

The road is good, but dull, all the way to the border. You are now traveling inland and so the scenery is changing. The scenery becomes much more mundane. I remember the coconut plantations and the canopy cover on the road in long stretches.

At Sungai Kolok, the formalities are simple. The place is quite relaxed but it looks a bit intimidating. A word of warning (which, oddly enough, everyone seems to know apart from me!) get you passport stamped out of a country before you enter a new one. There was no-one at the Malaysian side of the border (told you it was relaxed!), so I foolishly walked on by. When I got to Thailand, via the long concrete bridge, I was shoed back to get my exit stamp from Malaysia. The Malaysians couldn't work out why I wanted an exit stamp when I was just heading into their country! After careful diplomatic negotiations (handled far better than an UN Security Council meeting) I was given my stamp then sent packing toward Thailand once again.

NOTE: Thailand keeps overhauling its visa rules, for up to date information please see thaivisa.com

The roads remain the same good quality in Thailand. Follow the signs (to the right) on the road 4057 to Narathiwat. This route takes you via Tak Bai, this is the scene of a particularly grisly encounter between the locals and the security forces. The truth of the incident is unknown, but it seems to be a strong point of contention between the local population and the government. I don't recommend dwelling in the area.

Head northwards on the 4048 at Tak Bai. The route takes you, once again, on the coast. The ride is smooth, flat and easy. Head into Narathiwat and take your pick of local doss houses. Now, this is the largest town near the border. There is a thriving 'massage' business in town, there are a few nicer places to stay, prices are reflective of this. I did my usual trick of falling into the nearest and easiest place. I paid a measly 150 Baht (name again escapes me), but I think I got a bargain at the price. The bed had clean sheets.

Narathiwat - Pattani (93 Km)
Follow the highway 42 west then north. The roads in Thailand are dual carriage mostly with a nice shoulder of 1 or 2 meters. This route takes you slightly off your coastal road, but the day is good nevertheless. There are no mountains, a couple of ups and downs but nothing strenuous.

In Pattani you can find accommodation of any sort, the usual knocking shops are available, run down hotels and dodgey back street guest houses. The town itself is a small port and there are many beaches, virtually empty, on the coast within 5-10 Km. You get the feeling of isolation here, there aren't many foreigners around, however the welcome is warm an friendly wherever you go.

I went to the beach at Panare. It was beautiful and clean. I can highly recommend a couple of days here if you are a beach junky and want to relax and take a few days off the cycling.

Pattani - Hat Yai (115 Km)
Out of Pattani take route 43 heading to The Pha. The riding is easy, the traffic is really non=existent. The Pha is a great place to stretch your legs, have a bite to eat and relax. At the next town (big village) turn right and follow signs to Hat Yai. One note here, all places are well signed in Thailand in Thai and English. I have found some of the transliterations a bit odd for smaller places and therefore not being able to match my map, but you really can't get lost in Thailand. You can take the right road here and go to Songkhla, I have no idea why I picked Hat Yai.

Hat Yai is a bustling town, with a friendly vibe. Take your pick of accommodation. I recommend the market for all your culinary requirements. There is quite a good selection at good prices. I enjoyed the fruits, maybe even overdoing it as I still carried a big bag of selected fruits the next day on my bike.

Hat Yai - Phattalung (90 Km)
There are 2 choices here for your route. You can keep hugging the coastline above Songkhla or else you can head for the more congested road to Phattalung. I must have had a bit too much of the local brew as I headed in-land up to Phattalung on highway 4. This was possibly the worst choice as the road was long and dull. The highway is in perfect condition, but it is dull and traffic hurtles by (those damn trucks) at a rate much like a Formula 1 race, just substitute the sleek looks of perfect engineering on a Ferrari Formula 11 car with a dirty, old, heavily laden truck.

The day's ride is fairly easy as there are no gradients, but it depressed me because there was nothing to see. I rode into Phattalung a shattered man and vowed never to take the main highways again (where possible). Apparently there is a temple worth seeing in town, I didn't bother though, I just found my accommodation and fell asleep.

Phattalung - Nakhon Si Thammarat (103 Km)
Heading north on route 41 I found that this day's ride was quieter and slightly more enjoyable. You pass through a national park at about the 45 Km mark (Khao Phu Hao Yai National Park). This is the start of a chain of national parks all up the peninsular of Thailand. I pushed on toward Nakhon Si Thammarat. The ride was easy but I was grateful to find my guest house in town and take a rest.

Nakhon Si Thammarat - Sichon (71 Km)
Heading up the east coast is a special experience, the changing of the vegetation from Singapore to Thailand is wonderful to experience, the gradual change in culture and food is also fun to see. The day was punctuated by beautiful beaches and amazing view and the 70 Km just flew by. One day I will re-ride this route and bring a tent, camping on the beach is a definite possibility here and looks like a lot of fun.

My accommodation was in a resort just outside of Sichon. The scenery was amazing, and I only paid 300 Baht for the night.

Sichon - Surat Thani (83 Km)
I wanted to get into Surat Thani early so that I could get a ferry out to the islands. As it turned out my early start (06:00) wasn't entirely necessary as the ferries run quite late in the day. I hung out in Surat Thani for a while, there is a pleasant bar open all day just by the bus station.

Side trip - Koh Tao
I booked a ferry ticket with a dive shop (diving and accommodation) to the island of Koh Tao. They weren't phased by my bike and everyone took it in their stride. I headed for Koh Tao, a fabulous island about 2 hours by ferry. I decided on Koh Tao because of the diving, but also because I have visited Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan previously. Both islands have their own positives, but this time I was after a quieter island experience.

I caught the ferry back from Koh Tao to Chumphon. My only problems were touts. The girl at the travel agency (shack) on Koh Tao couldn't grasp the concept of me traveling by ferry and not booking an onward ticket. My explanations of having a bicycle just left her cold. Anyway, after patient explanations I got my ticket, but the touts on the other end where the ferry took us (some old fishing port) were even more bothersome. Despite evidence of my onward travel arrangements (big dirty bike in both my paws!) they were insistent, to the point of annoyance, that I actually did want a bus to Koa San Road in Bangkok. In the end I just jumped on my bike and set off, leaving the touts aghast at my behaviour.

The day was a long ride, especially as I had set off late because of the ferry. The sun was hot and the reflection from the road was terrible. I headed up the main highway (4) until Wang Yao then turn right and head for Bang Saphan. There is plenty of accommodation available, all levels are catered for. This is a really great spot in Thailand. It seems developed, but not to the extent of the other beach resorts (Pattaya, Hua Hin, Phuket etc.). The feel is very much a laid back beach style, much how Thailand used to be 10 years ago. I stayed on the beach in a bungalow for 250 Baht. A real bargain and a nice spot.

Bang Saphan - Prachuap Khiri Khan (82 Km)
Reluctantly I left my beach hut on Bang Saphan, heading north there is only one major road, Highway 4 again. The road is dull, and the traffic is a bit annoying, but the day was quite quick. The road is flat and my average speed stayed at a leisurely 15Km/hour. I was passing signs to resorts and places to stay all along the route. This is also the narrowest part of Thailand, extremely close to the Burmese border.

Prachuap Khiri Khan is a typical Thai town, there are a number of guest houses in town with some more high-end hotels and resorts dotted around. The guest houses have a Thai feel to them and they are in large numbers. I found a room for 200 Baht, but all ranges are catered for. You van stay in the central area of town or down by the beach. There are other options in Ao Noi, I didn't get there but my local guide (bar owner) gave me a full rundown.

Prachuap Khiri Khan - Pranburi (74 Km)
Leaving Prachuap Khiri Khan behind I headed for Hua Hin, the jewel of the Gulf of Thailand. The road is a major highway and as such is quite boring to ride. Pranburi is a small town, a great place for some BBQ and a rest. I decided, after talking to some locals to head for the beach. I rode past some resorts, loads of resort signs and eventually found some cheap accommodation on the beach. This place is really deserted, unspoilt and fresh. There are no bars (outside of the resorts) and only a few houses. I stayed in a cheap room with all mod cons for 400 baht.

The beach is worth walking up and down and there is some splendid BBQ chicken available. All the people I met and talked to were friendly. Whilst this isn't the most picturesque place in Thailand, it is certainly worth a visit. There are some nice mountains and some beautiful views.

Pranburi - Phetchaburi (76 Km)
The ride is reasonably short and not that inspiring. Traffic increases the closer you get to Bangkok. I kept close to the bale out line all day. I missed the delights of Hua Hin and Cha-am as I wanted to get to Bangkok quickly. The day was hot and one of those days you just have to grind out because of the lack of inspiration. I find the closer I am to my goal the less I am motivated. However I got to Phetchaburi and found myself a nice guest house, there are a few, and some good looking hotels. My host was a western guy, I can't recall his name, but he was a cool, laidback guy who wanted to just drink an drink. I stayed only the one night.

Phetchaburi - Bangkok (train)
As the traffic had been increasing the nearer I got to Bangkok, I decided to get a train into the capital. There are a couple of advantages to this, one it is cheap (100 Baht plus 80 Baht for the bike - about $6) and it relieves the pressures of cycling in Bangkok. I know the way from Hualampong train station to Khao San Road (main backpacker accommodation area) but I am sketchy on actually entering the city from one of the main arterial roads.

Closing note
My journey took 5 weeks in total. Well worth it and an excellent beginner ride, if you have the time. The roads are all great, accommodation is embarrassingly plentiful and the costs are low. The scenery is great (if you are into coastal views). The only negatives I can pull are some of the stretches are a bit dull, usually my choices were wrong on the direction though! There are a number of opt-out points and different directs, west coast Malaysia has a lot to offer, there are the highland areas of Malaysia and there is the west coast of Thailand and all the treasures available there. The choices are yours, enjoy.

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