April 2008

Cycling in Southeast Asian cities

This is my first monthly column. I am going to publish every month. This column will focus on travel and adventure activities in Southeast Asia. I will bring you news, interviews, reviews and information about cycling, rock climbing, kayaking, backpacking and camping, plus a myriad of other adventure activities out there.

In this first column I will focus on cycling in the larger cities in the region. My first experience of cycling in a Southeast Asian metropolis was in Ho Chi Min city about 10 years ago. I remember my flight landing and nervously passing through immigration, not because of what I was carrying or whether my paperwork was in order, but because I was about to cycle into a city at night and I knew nothing of cycling other than my daily trips to work in London. I didn't even know how to repair a puncture, let alone deal with the heat, traffic and geography of a humid Ho Chi Min city!

I assembled my bike (which came out on the conveyor belt after EVERYONE had collected their luggage) and panniers and wheeled my bike quickly through customs. No-one stopped me or looked at me, excellent start. I then exited the terminal into the hot night air. My first encountered with the local population was through a tout trying to tell me that I needed a permit for my bicycle and he would give me a lift into town to help me get around this. I instinctively ignored him and jumped on my saddle and cycled out of the parking lot into the night.

My first thought of cycling in this foreign city was 'TRAFFIC!'. There was literately thousands of other road users, on bikes, motorcycles and the odd car. They were all moving slowly, all flowing like a stream, flowing easily in either direction. I joined the stream and then made my way into the city centre. I had no lights (no worries as no-one else seemed to), I had no idea where I was going (no problem as there was only 1 road) and I was scared (no problem as everyone was friendly and eager to help me). I learnt two things on that 15 Km night ride. The first that the most important rules of cycling in Southeast Asia are self-preservation, you look after yourself and watch others, and small always gives way to large. The second thing I learnt was that it is fun. Everyone is happy to see you and you should relax and go with the flow.

I have, since that first ride, cycled in the busiest city that the region has to offer (Bangkok) and the sleepiest (dodging the tumbleweed in Vientiane) and have always found the cycling exciting and adventurous. My favourite method of transport has always been bicycle, ever since I got my first bike at 6 years old. I live in Bangkok nowadays and cover approximately 70Km a week. I love cycling around Bangkok, I really do.

People often say cycling in Bangkok is a mug's game, is only for the deranged or the poor. I feel different. The respect a bicycle receives in Bangkok is greater than in London. This is probably due to the large amount of motorcycles on the road. The only issues I have are with the bus drivers, who really do cut you up. They must be on commission or time bonuses as really their driving is amongst the craziest I have ever encountered. Having said that, everyone complains about the bus drivers, not just the cyclists.

Cycling in the cities of Southeast Asia is fun, you really get to communicate with the locals better, you get to see things the average foreigner doesn't get to see and sometime you even get there quicker. I have only had one accident in my 4 years of living/cycling in Bangkok (and 10 years touring the region). The accident happened about 2 years ago. I was hit by a motorist who was coming out of a side road and hit me as I travelled on the main road. The damage to my ego was more than the damage to my bike. The guy did a runner from the scene, as soon as he saw that I was alive. I put the accident down to me being unlucky.

I know several other cyclists in town, none have had any accidents. I hear rumours of people getting hurt, of how dangerous it is and how people shouldn't attempt cycling in Bangkok (or anywhere else in Southeast Asia). This is not the experience I have had. Maybe people can send me an e-mail if their experience has been different - simon@silkwheels.com?

One golden rule about cycling in any city (apart from the sleepy Vientiane) is always wear a helmet. When I had my accident I hit my head (helmet) on a car coming in the opposite direction. Had it not been for my helmet then I definitely would have suffered some pretty serious damage. As it was I was just a little dazed and confused.

I found this interesting cycling survival guide here for Bangkok. These rules are quite good and apply for any major city in Southeast Asia. If you want to see what it is like cycling in Bangkok please click here.

The final city cycling related item I will talk about here is the airport run. This can either be a wonderful, senses bombarding experience or a complete sweat soaked nightmare, depending on which city you are in and the time of day. My opening piece this month was about my first Ho Chi Min (or Saigon for the older folks) airport - city ride, but most cycle tourers will do an airport run at one stage or another in their touring life. I started in gentle HCM city, others will start in Bangkok. The ride in Bangkok is a nightmare and I still don't like doing it. Nowadays I either get a lift in a truck or take the train. The opening of a new airport as of 2006 was quite a relief, there is now an easier ride coming from the Chonburi side of the airport. This is instark contrast to the old airport at Don Muang which really scared the living daylights out of me!

The other major cities in the region are fairly safe, maybe not gentle rides, but definitely easier than Bangkok. Phnom Penh is simple, turn right out of the airport and follow the road straight into the Central Market. The airport in Vientiane is along the same straightforward lines, turn left and head straight into the heart of tumbleweed town. MCH in on a larger scale but isn't that complicated. Chiang Mai gets a little hairier in the city centre, thanks to those damned buses, but until then is a simple straight ride. Finally Hanoi is a simple ride into the city centre.

Other than that I can recommend Udon Thani airport as a simple bike friendly place, Krabi is also, the only problem is that it is miles from town. Siem Reap is closer to town and a glorious new stretch of tarmac accompanies you to downtown Siem Reap, as opposed to the unsealed stuff if you head away from town toward Thailand.

I will leave this month's column with a request. Can you send me an e-mail of any things you want me to cover, be it cycling, adventure sports or adventure activities? I will cover anything of an outdoor nature. I am grateful for any relevant news and events. I will advertise any charity events or local cycling/adventure events. My e-mail is simon@silkwheels.com. I will hopefully be doing a piece on the up-coming triathlon in Pranburi, the marathon in Pattaya and any other large adventurous events. My next monthly column, due on May 1st will cover some elements of camping in Thailand.

Happy trails

Simon