June 2008

I have been climbing in Thailand for 5 years. Thailand ranks amongst the best climbing destinations in the world. There are many places to climb in Thailand, many beautiful, quiet and exhilarating places. Primarily, people know about Krabi as a climbing destination, but your choice is far greater, climb in Chiang Mai, boulder in Saraburi, climb in Lopburi or Petchaburi, the list goes on and on.

I first started climbing in Thailand in a shopping mall. At the rather dilapidated, but grand sounding, Imperial World on Lat Phrao Road. The indoor wall is not great, but it is the best around town. There are various other indoor places, from the stadium at Hua Mark to the bouldering in Silom. The indoor climbing scene isn't that extensive in Bangkok as there doesn't seem to be the demand. There are a number of reasons for this I believe. Firstly, climbing is a fairly expensive sport and the Thai middle classes really is a developing section of society. Thais can't really afford that basic cash injection for a new sport like climbing. The second reason is that climbing isn't that popular or well known.

Having said that, there is a small, but lively, climbing scene in Bangkok. There is some quite good outdoor climbing within 2 hours from Bangkok. Mostly the climbing is sport climbing and there is a whole range of difficulty, from easy to difficult.

The first place I climbed was at a place called Khao Yoi in Petchaburi. This rock is about an hour and a half south of Bangkok. Most climbing is 6a to 6c (French grading) and the crag is one of the first places to be developed outside of Krabi. There are about 20 routes here and the easiest is 5. The crag is a limestone crag and is neetly tucked away just off the road. The top gives you stunning views over the surrounding area. Nearby there is the cave of Khao Yoi. You will often see caving parties pass you by. Climbing here is best done in the afternoon as the sun can take it's toll in the morning.

My first trip to Khao Yoi is a great memory. I had downloaded directions from the internet here. My girlfriend, a Canadian friend and myself set off at 07:00 from the northern end of the Skytrain in Bangkok. We made it to the rock at Khao Yai at about 09:00. The place is easy to locate, and the topography of the climbs are easy to read from the map. That day I climbed several routes, from a technical 6a to a chimney 6b. There is such a vast majority of routes that you can pick and choose what ever suits you. There is not waiting time either. There were 3 or 4 other climbers, all friendly and helpful, but not enough people to stop you moving from one route to another easily.

There are a number of other areas, other than the biggest areas at Ton Sai and Railey in Krabi. There is climbing in Lopburi, probably the largest area near to Bangkok, there is a small climbing rock on the beach at Pranburi and there is some excellent bouldering in Saraburi.

The climbing in Pranburi is very reminiscent of climbing in Krabi. Straight off the beach, next to the sea, you climb up and get magnificent views of the surrounding area at the top. I love this area especially as I can camp out and enjoy the area without hordes of tourists.

Climbing in and around Bangkok, although excellent, is limited. Chiang Mai has a large crag which offers a wide variety of climbs, however I have not been there so I cannot review it. I do know that there is over 50 routes and you can find more information here.

Of course the 'daddy' of all climbing in Southeast Asia has to be Krabi. There are three main climbing areas; Ton Sai, Railey and Phi Phi. Railey and Ton Sai were the original places to be bolted over 20 years ago. These areas deserve their reputation as world class climbing destinations. There is something to suit all levels, from the absolute beginner to the seriously tough advanced stuff. Deep water soloing (DWS) is also starting to be explored by the more adventurous climbers. There is even a DWS guide available. The local longtail boats can take you around if that is your thing.

Ton Sai and Railey have a thriving climbing community. There are a number of climbing shops which rent and sell gear. Guided 1/2 and full days are available. Typical prices range from 800 Baht for a half day to 1500 Baht for a full day. Wee's shop is typical of the places you will find on Railey, check out the website at Wee's Climbing School for more details. The guides and the schools are great on Ton Sai and Railey, however do not expect the professional qualifications which can be found of similar guides in the west. Often the climbers will be hugely experienced, have unparalleled knowledge of the rock and surrounding areas, however they sometimes lack the professional aptitude of paid guides. I have never felt unsafe, and have always had good service, just ensure that you check and recheck yourself, your equipment and your fellow climbers. You are responsible for your own safety at the end of the day.

If you are planning a trip to climb around Krabi it is probably best to take accommodation actually at Ton Sai or Railey. The beaches are connected by a short walk and there is a whole spectrum of accommodation available. This site here shows all the places available and gives some good information on the area. You can also stay in Ao Nang and take a longtail boat every day to the climbing areas. Ao Nang is not as relaxed as Railey, it has more of a tourist resort feel with many restaurants and bars. It is mainly a place for the package tourist. There is some good information here for Krabi, Ao Nang and the surrounding area.

On my first climbing trip to the area I stayed in Ao Nang, I stayed in an over priced resort. I booked a half day climbing tour (as I was solo and didn't know the area) and was taken, in a group, to Railey Beach. Climbing off the beach was a new and wonderful experience for me. Beach climbing left a huge impression on me. I have since become addicted to the feeling of beach climbing, those views over the water, the soft sand landings and the cool sea breeze. The atmosphere is relaxed on Railey, the views are outstanding and the climbs are as varied as you want them to be. The only downside seems to be the toll the sea air will take on your gear. You must ensure that your gear is well cleaned after each day's climb. Obviously this could be one benefit of hiring gear in the area.

I have always found the climbing community in Thailand, like most climbing communities in the world, to be extremely friendly and helpful. People will always pitch in with gear, offer to climb with you or belay you if you turn up at a crag by yourself. The only thing I would be wary of in Thailand is turning up to a climbing site around Bangkok solo as there will usually be no-one else there.

Seasons do impact climbing in Thailand a fair bit. The best time to climb is November to February. These are the drier, cooler months. March to May tend to be the hottest months where climbing can be challenging as the humidity really does get to you. These months tend to bring some rain also but this doesn't really impact your climbing experience. June to October are the traditional rainy season. Most of this time the weather can be 'hit or miss'. September and October can be especially wet. You will, however, find cheaper accommodation and prices. You will never have to book in advance and can often negotiate large discounts on everything.

Moving away from climbing, this month has seen a new advertising offensive by the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT). The focus of the campaign, on TV and in print, seems to be the luxury high end tourist. I have to question the wisdom of this particular direction of the Thai tourist industry. I believe that Thailand has some of the best adventure tourism in the world; climbing, diving, hiking, canoeing and so on. The list of things to do in Thailand's adventure market is huge. There is too much competition in the world of the high end luxury tourist for Thailand to really focus on that market. Whilst temples, beaches and sex are the traditional sales focus, I have to say that a bit more focus on the adventure market would go a long way and would produce good dividends. You can see the TATs latest campaign (including 'Thainess' and 'wellness') here.

Next month I am going to return to cycling and write some stuff about touring in Thailand, I may even include an interview or two of ex-pat cyclists who bike in and around Bangkok.

Happy trails

Simon